The Surreal Begins

Being in Geshe-la's presence is enough to get a real feel for the surreal. But what he had in store for us took it to an entirely new level. We got up early morning [translation: 5am cold shower] and headed to Trehor Khangtsen, a monastery next door to House #2A.

Before going much further, House #2A is Geshe-la's new house built around 1993, which houses 40+ monks and is also Geshe Tsulga-la's and Geshe Pema Tserig's residence. The house has gone through several additions, with a second floor built in 2002 and an entire new 3-floor addition finished in 2009.





Most regrettably, you can see a cell phone tower abutting the property. It was built soon after the house was first built. If anyone has ideas on how to influence both the Indian government and the cell phone companies to relocate the tower to a safer location away from all houses, please let me know!

House #2 is Geshe-la's old house. It is currently the home to approximately 10 monks who have a close connection to Geshe-la. House #2 is very small. Geshe-la told us that they all used to all live together in one room - slept lined up like sardines - and studied, did pujas and ate all in the same room!












So, we're on our way to Trehor Khangtsen for a very special event. One of Geshe-la's root gurus, Gyumed Khensur Rinpoche Geshe Ugyen Tseten, passed away two years ago at the age of 93. From talking to Geshe-la his love for his guru is so obvious. Geshe-la made a silver stupa offering for Rinpoche's ashes; and this was the offering ceremony that we were about to attend!




The hall was full with monks already engaged in prayers. We were guided to the second floor (the VIP area) for tea with all the major sponsors.












After a while we were directed downstairs. At the front entrance we stood facing this massive hall full of red robes - it was deeply moving. And then, Geshe-la started prostrating. I hadn't seen him do that in a while, and seeing it now gave a whole new meaning to "rejoicing" - I was thrilled!



We joined the offering mandala procession and came up to the main altar to make khata offerings. From the video you get a sense of the sounds and some of the visuals. But, try to imagine yourself walking down these long halls, flanked by 4,000+ praying monks, heading up to a massive altar with 30-foot statues.

These halls are full of textured flags - almost like fish scales - and deep, bright colors. The halls are full of the scent of incense, which is burning in massive quantities up at the altar. There are burning candles thicker than the trunk of many trees. And the chants of the deep-voiced monks reverberate both off the walls and your entire body - especially your stomach!

As we walked down the hall we were keeping our attention focused on the procession. And then another flag would come in our way. The sounds. The sights. All our senses were constantly stimulated. It is an amazing experience - and so moving!




Geshe-la made the body mandala offering, and we all made offerings at HHDL's throne. We then worked our way behind HHDL's throne to the 30-foot statues behind it and made khata offerings to each of them:




And then we came to it - the silver stupa:



Witnessing Geshe-la's interaction with the stupa, with his guru - that moment alone was so incredibly powerful that Geshe-la could have turned around, looked at me, said "you go home now;" and I would have been thrilled and perfectly content. Of the 1,600+ pictures and videos I took during the trip, this is one of the most special moments of the entire trip. Take a few moments to meditate on what is happening at this very moment, and rejoice!




We then went into a small room to the side of the altar to make offerings to the protector deity. Hayagriva is a very special protector deity for Sera Jey Monastery, so the main deity in the altar was Hayagriva. Then, we all returned to the VIP area for a little while longer.




On the second floor of most monasteries, there are balconies to see into the hall below and also to see the main altar from above. I'll have more pictures from this vantage point during visits to other monasteries - the views are amazing and give a real perspective and feeling for the monumental proportions of the monasteries and the altars.




And then we headed back to the house. The river of red robes was quite the sight! Notice how everyone leaves their shoes at the steps of the monastery; and, yes, everyone does remember where they left their shoes!










...and, of course, the ever-present cow on the way...




- Post by Sean Gonzalez